I would love to recommend a charming and authentic taquería in Coyoacán, Mexico City. Ecosentli sits on Calle Pdte. Carranza 138, tucked into a quiet, rustic neighbourhood just a block back from the main shopping street. The shopfront is so colourful it practically pulls you inside. It came highly recommended by my AirBNB host, and I could tell straight away that it would be the real deal.
At the doorway, a tortilla grill sizzled while the scent of salsa verde mingled with coffee. Oddly, there was also a faint smell of popcorn, but the reason for that would soon become clear. The interior was bright, cheerful, and lined with colourful tiles.
This story is part of our Travel Writing & Reflection series. Read more here.
Seating
The seating is small but inviting. Indoors, just a handful of tables; outdoors, a simple courtyard with hard wooden chairs, though cushions are on hand. From my courtyard table, I could watch the busy staff working in the shining, metallic kitchen.
Menu
Near the entrance, four bowls of the day’s specials were on display. A smiling waitress pointed them out as she led me to a table. Soon she returned with a small easel bearing the menu. Even with decent Spanish, I found myself struggling with the many indigenous and highly specialised food terms. Out came Google Translate, but it was the waitress who ultimately helped me decode the menu.
Dishes included tlacoyos ahogados (corn dough “drowned” in sauce), quesadillas, cauliflower empanadas, vegetable soup, and chiles en nogada (green poblano chiles in white walnut sauce, sprinkled with red pomegranate, celebrating the colours of the Mexican flag). After some back and forth, I settled on a machaca quesadilla (beef tenderloin) for extra protein, accompanied by a refreshing pear juice served in a retro Mason jar.
When the quesadilla arrived, it came with a surprise side of popcorn, as well as little pots of salsa verde (spicy) and salsa roja (mild). The food was excellent. It was simple, hearty, and very reasonably priced. The atmosphere was clearly more local than touristy, but visitors are warmly welcomed.
Preparing the Tortillas
One highlight was watching tortillas made from scratch. Everywhere in Mexico City, tortillas are often mixed with black beans, giving them a deep chocolate colour. I asked the woman at the griddle if I could take a photo, and she agreed with a quick smile.
She tore a lump of dark dough, slapped it flat between her palms, pressed it in a tortilla press, and then laid it by hand onto the hot griddle. She then quickly flipped it with her bare hands. I was amazed at her speed and skill, and at how her hands seemed impervious to the heat.
The Shop
Ecosentli is more than a place to eat. It doubles as a boutique and pantry, stocked with local crafts and kitchen goods. Among the treasures: embroidered handbags, colourful aprons, painted spinning tops, ornaments, local artwork, lush green plants, and whimsical earrings and keychains, both shaped like ears of corn.
The foodstuffs are equally tempting: jams, sauces, nacho chips, strings of dried chillies, sweet biscuits, fresh brown eggs, and excellent coffee sold in 1kg, 500g, and oddly precise 340g bags. It’s the sort of place where you can buy something small and carry a piece of Mexico home.
Conclusion
If you find yourself in Coyoacán and want a taste of the real Mexico, find your way to Ecosentli. It’s not just a taquería but a celebration of colour, tradition and community. If you want to taste Mexico in every bite, this delightful little spot is for you.
Elizabeth has earned degrees in International Relations and Education. She has worked in public service and as a teacher of English to adult migrants in Australia. She spends her money on travelling instead of technology.