Koh Lanta is one of the many islands in the Andaman Sea off the coast of Phuket. Though geared for tourism, it is pleasingly quiet compared to the craziness of nearby Phi Phi and Ao Nang. This is particularly the case during the monsoon months of July and August. There are actually two islands, Koh Lanta Noi (Big) and Koh Lanta Yai (Small), and they are connected by a bridge. You get to the islands by boat or car ferry from the mainland.
I only had a couple of days so restricted myself to Koh Lanta Yai. Low season accommodation is cheap – I stayed in a nice beach resort for $60 per night. There was hardly anyone else staying there, and the staff went home at night. It was a bit of a gamble with the weather. There were some furious overnight storms but the days were mostly sunny and humid. So no problems seeing the place, which is best done on a rented scooter for about $10 per day.
This story is part of our Slow Travel in South East Asia series. Read more here.
Most of the tourist areas are on the western side, with the nicer resorts on the long beaches in the north close to the main town of Sala Dan. Ride further south and the terrain gets hillier with more secluded beaches and backpacker-style atmosphere.
The eastern side of the island is less populated, with small villages dispersed within the forest and mangroves. Lanta Old Town is the main feature here, and it is worth a visit. Though there are souvenir shops and cafes (everyone needs to make a dollar), the buildings are traditional in nature and fishing is the main enterprise. The people sell fish into the open market so modern hygiene practices apply, but fishing is a family business. The men bring the catch into the piers alongside their homes, then everyone pitches in to clean and package the fish. Much of this activity occurs in the street. It is a social event and they are happy to indulge a foreigner (farang)’s interest.
This is where it is worth mentioning the island’s history. It was probably first settled by the Chao Lay (sea gypsy) people five or six hundred years ago, and Old Town, on the lee side, was one of the first settlements. The Chinese merchants came a bit later, and established a base for trading tin, charcoal and dried fish with the other ports along the peninsula including Penang, Melaka and Singapore. Over time the populations merged with the Malay people from further south, resulting in a blended culture. Like many of the Thai Andaman islands, most of the people are Muslim but not overtly so. All settlements have a small mosque and older women wear hijab. Otherwise Islam is hard to notice unless you are looking for it.
There is one road that crosses the centre of the island, from the village of Ban Cheli on the east to Ban Khlong Top on the west. After a steep climb to a viewpoint, the road descends through forest and agricultural areas. You can get off the main road and lose yourself riding between rubber plantations, mango and pineapple fields, and even see boats being built. The locals will shout and wave, but few speak English.
Back on the western side, the beaches are OK but not great. Its like being in a warm, calm bath with bits of wood floating around. But the beachfront restaurants are great for a sunset mai tai and some spicy soup or noodles.
And finally, a special shout out to the ladies at the Mijau salon near the 7-11 on the main road near Klong Dao Beach. As well as a haircut and neck and shoulder massage, they removed a deeply embedded and painful splinter from my foot.
Steve is a former Army officer and technology manager, now semi-retired and living in Melbourne. He enjoys adventurous travel and believes that good stories should be shared. He founded the Dusty Boots Journal as a means to connect those with similar interests.