The promise of a five-day pub crawl
When a riding trek was marketed as a five day pub crawl I was immediately intrigued.
My daughter, Morgan, flew into Brisbane and we stayed in the pub in Lowood. Lowood’s population exploded from 1000 in 2006 to 4000 today. We soon learned why. Crowds of disenchanted Brisbanites and Ipswichians are moving to the country to be near the fabulous Lowood Thai restaurant. We avoided the ‘crap dishes’ listed on the menu. Miss Noi explained they were really ‘crab dishes’, but we took no chances and settled for Tom Yum and green curry which we loved.
Next morning we drove to a property in Coominya. Our guides rummaged into the sorting hat and matched us to our new buddies. Morgan got a fiery little white pony which she decorated with wildflowers. Mine was robust and had a woolly roan coat similar to a Hereford cow.
Mounted on comfy western saddles we set off along the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail to Blackbutt, covering about 20 kilometres a day. This was easy street for these horses. They were well-groomed and given at least a kilo of high protein cereal morning and night. To make it easier we never mounted by swinging up on the stirrup. Step ladders or similar were used to avoid equine back stress.
Tips for single male riders
Horse activities seem to attract females more than males. As the only male of a group of 12, I developed a few strategies to maintain independence.
Rule 1. Selective hearing for health, horse and relationship conversations. Standard response, ‘Oh sorry I wasn’t listening … excuse me I just have to take this call as my mother is quite ill.’
Rule 2. As all were seasoned equine experts, whenever there were debates on bloodlines, tack types or trail etiquette, I would just nod. If prodded I reverted to Rule 1.
Rule 3. If Rule 1 and 2 fail, feign a look of incredulity and state, ‘I am amazed just how much more you know about horses or ‘insert relevant topic’ … excuse me I just have to take this call as my mother is quite ill.’
History of the Brisbane Valley Rail Line
The rail line to Lowood was opened on 16 June 1884. It was described as a ‘very tortuous and serpentine railway’ with ‘little attraction at Lowood.’ Naturally this was before the opening of the Thai restaurant.
Breaches of contract, litigations, the 1893 financial crash and strikes meant it only took another eleven years to construct the next 55km to Toogoolawah in 1904. By imposing heavier taxes on land owners, construction really got moving and in December 1912 (another thirteen years!) the final 57km to Blackbutt was completed.
Regular passenger trains were withdrawn in 1967 and the line closed in 1989. In 1993 removal of tracks began.
The rail trail
Local councillors pursued the idea of a rail trail in 1996. With lightning speed various sections were opened over the 15 years to 2010. A flooding event damaged much of the trail in 2011. As a result, the councillors decided to think about it till 2016 when a very clever councillor realised little construction and few materials are needed to construct a bush trail. Armed with this new found knowledge, the project started in 2017 and took less time than it takes to make a baby – under 9 months. If only this councillor had been in the local government in 1996 the rail trail may have been opened twenty years earlier.
Riding the trail
The trail landscape is a blend of open and gently undulating farm land broken by rocky bushland. Our guide had a well-trained dog that would get excited by the scent of koalas and then circle the koala trees. We got excited too, as we had never seen so many koalas.
Seeing the world from horseback gives a different perspective. A rail trail is a gentle experience. Cyclists love rail trails as they never have steep climbs – the usual gradient is 1% or less. Hence plenty of bridges and tunnels.
Historic pubs
A highlight was staying and dining in local country pubs each night. Some have magnificent Queenslander verandas with wooden slats and wrought iron fixtures. Despite grand facades, these are basic hotels. Some have shared bathrooms patiently awaiting their appearance on Antiques Roadshow. But all have soft beds for saddle sore guests. The atmosphere is friendly with publicans and locals eager to educate us on local points of interest.
Who is Blackbutt’s favourite son?
Finishing up in Blackbutt (population 799) we learned it was home of Roy Emerson – Who? Who indeed! A tennis great. He won 12 grand slam singles – the Australian Open six times and Wimbledon, US and French Open twice each. Also 16 doubles Grand slams. He remains the only man to win all four Grand Slams in both singles and doubles. Unfortunately, we did not get to visit the Roy Emerson Museum. Next time!
End of the line
Final breakfast at the Blackbutt Bakery – voted Queensland’s Best Pie at the 2025. I filled up on the Godfather pie consisting of tomato relish, minced beef, mushroom, tomato, onion, olives, shredded ham, bacon, salami, capsicum, topped with creamy feta, garlic sauce, and vintage cheese.
I whispered thanks to my horse for the hours nodding to my few verbal commands and for never finishing my sentences. In response I got a horse kiss. This is when horse shares its breath or “kisses” a human to indicate that it feels as safe and comfortable as it does with bonded partners in a herd. Wiping away a tear I gave it a hug and apologised that I had to go because my mother is ill.
We motored the 100km back to Coominyah. Wedged in the middle seat, to amuse myself and not wanting the trip to end, I closed my eyes and tried to think of 10 songs about horses. Horse with No Name – America, Wild Horses – Rolling Stones, Bring on The Dancing Horses – Echo & The Bunnymen, The Horses – Darryl Braithwaite… then I woke back at the ranch.
This story is part of our Australian Back Roads & Remote Travel series. Read more here.
Muz lives in Sydney. When not conducting investigations he divides his time between travel adventures, backgammon, family and luring dumb fish to their demise.