Mexico sometimes gets a bad rap. Here in Australia we are bombarded with all manner of stories about violent crime and drug militias whacking each other, mostly through American movies and TV series, or via American news services. It didn’t help when, in early 2023, the news was filled with a story of two young Australian surfers gone missing in Northern Mexico, eventually found shot in the head at the bottom of a well.
So when I recently visited Mexico for a two-week jaunt, I was curious to see what real life was like.
I was blown-away (sorry) by the experience and I would recommend the place above almost anywhere else I’ve travelled in the world.
It’s always risky to generalise about nationalities. But I guess if you’re being nice, it’s okay. Irishmen are funny, Germans are industrious and Aussies are laid-back. The Mexicans? Well, contrary to the unfair prevailing media stereotypes, I found the Mexicans to be a smart, energetic, pragmatic and resilient people, not to mention warm and hospitable (man, they know how to party). And a bit taller than expected.
But the biggest surprise was that Mexicans are extremely proud of their country: It took me a little while, but I after exploring Mexico City and elsewhere, I worked out why. Mexico’s long and rich history, particularly its indigenous history, has bequeathed the country a cultural depth that can’t be missed, in it its architecture, its colourful art and its music – all totally at odds with the cheap feel of Taco Bell.
Here are some of my highlights from Mexico City:
The Temple Mayor
Imagine in the late 70’s some bloke on the corner of Flinders and Russell Streets found a couple of curious carved stones, prompting the Prime Minister to command the demolition of all the buildings across four city blocks, with the ensuing archaeological dig exposing the well-preserved ruins of a temple built 700 years ago by an ancient people. That’s basically what happened in Mexico City’s centre 60 years ago, resulting in the astounding discovery of the ruins of an Aztec temple. Accompanied by a spectacular museum replete with a fascinating array of 7,000+ artefacts, including the sacred and huge Coyolxauhqui carved stone, this place is a must-see.
Frida Khalo’s House (“The Blue House”)
The home of arguably Mexico’s most famous artist gives you a fun and fascinating insight into her tragic life. Khalo was at the centre of the post-revolution, Mexican and international communist intelligentsia (she shagged Trotsky for a while) and this place gives an insight into the birth of the modern Mexican identity.
Many of the great works of Khalo’s long-suffering artist husband, Diego Riveria, are housed across town in the beautiful Palacio de Bellas Artes, including his famous, huge mural “El Hombre Controlador Universa” (The Man Controlling the Universe). The mural is a wonderful rehash of the original, which had been painted at the Rockfeller Centre New York, on commission from Nelson Rockefeller himself, who had it destroyed before it was even finished because he objected to its communist references. Riveria was paid in full.
There was so much to do in Mexico City, I was sad to leave it behind so soon. But Guadalajara, Mexico’s second-biggest city, beckoned – home to Mariachi and tequila.
Mariachi is a curious but wonderful musical tradition in Mexico whose image was completely trashed by Chevy Chase and Steve Martin in the 80’s movie “The Three Amigos”. The Mariachi get-up (skin-tight trousers, jewelled waistcoats and enormous sombreros) does give the bands a kitsch and gimmicky look, but the virtuosity of the guitarists, violinists and trumpeters is something to behold. In Guadalajara, Mariachi bands are everywhere, and I mean everywhere. And the locals love it.
If tequila is your thing, you’ll find real quality at the many tequila distilleries around Guadalajara including in the beautiful town of… Tequila. All sorts of tours are available to see how the drink is made from agave plants, whose crops coat the region’s countryside.
Finally, I have to mention the baseball in Guadalajara: Mexico has a high standard in its National League and I became an instant fan after I saw the local Guadalajara Churros (Cowboys) smash the Monterrey Sultans. And the Mexicans could teach us Australians how to put on a sports match: After the game, behind the stands, they put on a gig featuring three different bands. The bars were three-deep.
Mexicans, I concluded, know how to live.
Mark currently works in finance and has travelled extensively throughout Asia, Europe, Africa and North America. India will be his next stop.