Renting a Scooter in South East Asia – Staying Upright and Legal

Renting a scooter in Southeast Asia is the ultimate travel paradox: it offers the purest sense of freedom, yet it’s statistically the most dangerous thing you’ll do on your trip. In places like Bali, Vietnam, or Thailand, a bike lets you find the empty beaches and remote mountain passes that buses bypass, but the learning curve is paved with asphalt.

I’m not telling you whether to do it or not – that is entirely up to you.  But if you decide to rent two wheels, here is some advice.

Keeping it Legal

A widely held misconception is that a standard driver’s license from home is enough. It isn’t. To be legal (and for your travel insurance to actually cover you), you need a valid motorcycle license from your home country AND an International Driving Permit (IDP).  This is an easy mistake to make, as most scooter rental places don’t ask to see an IDP, or even a license.  Get your IDP before you leave home – it is not expensive and can be acquired in a week or so by applying online through the Australian Automobile Association or affiliated state associations.  Avoid online brokers who promise immediate delivery and add a big markup.

If you come off the bike without an IDP, your insurance company will likely abandon you, leaving you with a big medical bill. Furthermore, in some places local police are on the lookout for foreigners, and without an IDP you’ll be paying an on-the-spot ‘fine’ that goes straight into a pocket, not a precinct.

Mechanical Due Diligence

Before you hand over your passport (which you should never do – give a high-quality photocopy instead – do a 360-degree walkaround.

• The character test: Size up the person and premises offering you the scooter.  Is this someone with whom you want to deal?  If not, look for somewhere else, even if it costs you a few more dollars per day.  A good idea is to get your hotel/hostel staff to help…a positive rental experience for you equals good business for them.
• The photo proof: Take a video of every scratch, dent, and cracked mirror. Rental shops are notorious for claiming ‘new’ damage when you return the bike.
• The brake check: Don’t just roll it; sit on it and squeeze. If the levers feel spongy, ask for a different bike.
• The tyre tread: Bald tyres on wet tropical roads are a recipe for a skid and crash.

Survival on the Road

The ‘law’ in SE Asia is often a suggestion based on the size of the vehicle. Might makes right – trucks and buses own the road, and they will not move for you.

• Wear the helmet: It seems obvious, but the heat and sense of freedom make people reckless. A helmet could make the difference between a story to tell and a medevac flight.
• Cover your skin: Road rash in 90% humidity heals at an agonizingly slow rate. Even a light long-sleeve shirt is better than bare shoulders.
• The surprise turn-out: In many regions, drivers pull out into traffic without looking, assuming you will swerve around them. Keep your thumb over the horn and your eyes three vehicles ahead.

Common Scams

Besides the ‘new damage’ risk mentioned above, here are a few other things to watch out for.  They are pretty rare, but be mindful.

• The midnight key:  A shop uses a spare key to steal the bike from your hotel at night, then demands the full replacement cost. Wherever possible, park in secured parking areas provided by your accommodation.  And you could put your own padlock on the disc brake. 
• The flat tyre Good Samaritan: You’re riding along a remote road, and suddenly your back tyre feels spongy. Miraculously, a ‘mechanic’ appears on the scene, or a local points frantically at your wheel. They may have sprinkled short, sharpened nails in spots where tourists pull over. The mechanic then overcharges you for a low-quality patch or a tube you didn’t actually need.  If you feel your tyre getting soft, keep rolling until you find a shop.
• The fake police: In some high-traffic tourist zones ‘freelance’ security guards or fake police will tell you that you’ve parked illegally and that your bike is being towed or impounded. They offer to ‘release’ it for cash right there on the sidewalk.  The defence: Look at other bikes – if locals are parked there, you are fine. If someone approaches you, ask for their official ID and offer to go to the actual police station to pay the fine. They usually disappear.

Happy Scootering!

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See some places you might go on your scooter in our Slow Travel in South East Asia page.