Scootering my way around Bang Saphan, Thailand

This article is part of our Slow Travel in South East Asia series. For other Thai scootering experiences, have a read of our accounts of riding around Sangkhla Buri, Mae Sai, Koh Lanta and Chiang Rai. And for the Dusty Boots guide to renting a scooter and staying safe on the roads, click here.

This reflection is more about an activity rather than a specific place, that activity being motor-scootering on the Thai peninsula.  Consider the length of the coastline from Narathiwat in the south to Hua Hin in the north – over 1,000km.  There are so many places, you can never get to all of them.  Some are obvious and well-known, and some are a shot in the dark.  If you have the good fortune to spend a few days, don’t over-think it.  Find a spot and stay there, don’t try to do too much or go too far.

In true Dusty Boots spirit, I sought out a place that most travellers might bypass completely.

Bang Saphan is in Prachuap Kiri Khan province, between Chumphon and Hua Hin.  Bus services are infrequent, so it is mostly accessible by train unless you rent a private car.  It is far enough south to escape the madness of weekenders from Bangkok and Hua Hin.

Bang Saphan is a medium size town with no tourism and not a lot to recommend it.  But about 5km south is an area with a number of small resorts and hotels on or near the beach, as well as family-run homestays and bungalow villas.  I stayed in Apple Bungalow, run by Apple, a hardworking widow, and her niece.  Incidentally, Kate’s Bungalows next door is run by Apple’s sister and English husband.

I used it as a base for scootering – one day north, one day south.

Day 1 – North to Ban Krut and Wat Thang Sai

This was a day of beaches and temples.  80km round trip.

• Bo Thong Lang Bay:  Zoom through Ban Saphan township, then find your way around Bo Thong Lang Bay.  Take your time, stop at the fishing villages and watch the boats and fishermen repairing nets; breathe in the delightful scent of last night’s squid catch drying in the sun.  Take a look at Buddha and have a dip in the family-friendly getaway spot.  Ride past the commercial port, then onto the coast road.
• To Ban Krut:  This is a beautiful ride on a secondary road along the lengthy Don Samran beach, with few people in sight.  Have a swim and a mango juice along the way.  Pass through the small settlement of Ban Krood, which looks like it has some nice small places to stay.  Then you get to Ban Krut, which  is a sizeable beach town and very much on the tourist trail.  It seemed to be mostly Thais but I saw a few western crusties wandering around.  I’m glad I stayed with Apple.
• Phra Marahat Chedi:  This is a spectacular temple on the headland north of Ban Krut.  Drive up the hill to the giant Buddha then walk 10 minutes up to the Chedi (temple).  It is a truly beautiful spot; take the time to go into the Chedi out of the heat.
• Wat Thang Sai:  On the northern base of the headland, this is a working/teaching temple.  Judging by the amount of car parking available, there are some big ceremonies here.  The building itself is not spectacular; the interest is in seeing the stuff going on including teaching, and monks pouring concrete for a wall and painting it.  I managed to have a chat.
• Head Back:  That’s as far as I got that day.  Once you get north of Wat Thang Sai you are back on the main road, so it is busier.

Day 2 – South to the Grand Sand Dune

This was a very different riding experience – winding through farmland and villages. The important thing is to take your time.  Again, 80-90km.

• To Bang Boet: Leave Bang Saphan on the main road south, then turn off left.  Explore quiet resorts and villages.  Bang Boet is a scenic little village sheltered by a big headland; stop for a juice and a chat.
• Onwards to the Grand Sand Dune:  The road is well-signposted, and the dunes are an attraction.  There was a lady behind a desk under an umbrella suggesting a donation for upkeep, and many dogs including a litter of pups under the steps as I climbed to the dune.  Have a view from the viewing platform, then descend to the beach which is wide and deserted, and good for a swim at your turnaround point.  As I swam I looked at the dune and pondered the effects of time, tide and wind.  While not spectacular, it is unique and should be recognised as such.
• Return:  Retrace your steps, have another swim.  Stop and compare the different types of palm tree, and listen for birds.  Have a really close look at a tapped rubber tree.  This is a unique day in your life – soak it up.

That’s the secret of the Thai peninsula. You don’t need a grand itinerary or a luxury tour operator to find the soul of the coast. You just need a full tank of fuel, a loose direction, and the willingness to pull over whenever a secondary road catches your eye. In a world rushing to the next big destination, sometimes the best thing you can do is find a quiet bungalow, rent a scooter, and let the road unfold one kilometer at a time.